(QZ) - “In wine, there is truth” the ancient saying goes. In wine these days, there are also a lot of rules. And sometimes, the judgement, showmanship, and shade surrounding what we drink and how we drink it can suck the fun right out of one of humanity’s oldest pleasures.

Here at Quartzy, our philosophy is pretty simple: Drink what tastes good to you. It’s an attitude that Los Angeles wine shop owner Helen Johannesen, quoted recently by my colleague Jenni Avins, articulated when describing the easy pleasure of glou gou wine: “It’s easy; it’s casual; it’s a vin de soif. You’re not going to be swirling it in your glass over three hours trying to extract the tasting notes … It’s also a vibe—like: It’s a party! It’s cool! Life is for the living!”