(Grubstreet) - You might think that chocolate and wine are a natural pair, but their clashing qualities make them surprisingly difficult to enjoy together. Chocolate has a bitter edge that must be tempered by sweetness, and the texture — so appealing on its own — creates a formidable challenge to find wine that will follow suit. Which is just one reason why I was extra apprehensive when my editor asked if there were any wines that might pair well with s’mores. (“Campfire” is also not a note you find too often in wine.) However, as luck would have it, the style of wine that does manage to work well with the famous summertime treat is a niche style that deserves a bigger profile of its own.

Valpolicella is an appellation in the Venetian region of Northern Italy. The area is known for its big red wines, but less known for its dessert wines. The main grapes used here are Corvina (the main event and most serious grape), Rondinella (adds a little fruitiness to the blend), and Molinara (a minor player that offers a boost in acidity).