Every fall, Wine Country starts fermenting, enveloped in the intoxicating aroma of fruit and yeast.You sometimes find yourself stuck in traffic, with grape-laden trucks slowing everything to a standstill.Yet most of the time, you don't really mind the delay because you can't help being drawn to the magic of harvest, the rust-colored vines set back from the road, the look, the smell, the feel. If you could get a closer peek at harvest, what would you see? What is it that insiders who work with the grapes know about the season called “crush” that outsiders would find surprising?