(Winemag) - Sylvaner (or Silvaner) has long been an underdog of white wine. But a new era of quality and style means it's time to take a look at why this grape should be on your radar.

Pinot Grigio has longed reigned as the unofficial white wine of American summer, on ice by the pool or gulped by the grill. But it’s time to consider alternatives to this neutral Italian white. Why?  Because the world is filled with an array of interesting grapes that have never been more accessible to wine lovers.

Here’s why Sylvaner (or Silvaner) is perfect to fill Pinot Grigio’s boat shoes this summer.

Sylvaner’s history

If you’ve not sipped Sylvaner before, you’re not alone. The white grape originated in Central Europe as the offspring of Österreichisch Weiss and Traminer, two relatively obscure varieties. Cultivated in the Middle Ages, Sylvaner migrated from the Austrian Empire into Germany, where it took up permanent residence. The grape then hitchhiked over to Alsace, France, where it established a second spiritual home.

While familiar to Europeans, Sylvaner lacks identity in America. It’s seldom promoted as heavily as other white varieties of Germany and Alsace, like Riesling and Pinot Blanc. And the wines that once made it to our shores weren’t always prize winners, which caused Sylvaner to garner a reputation as neutral and innocuous.