(VinePair) - It’s hard not to love the idea of natural wine. Fewer chemicals, less intervention, more environmentally friendly — nebulously defined “natural wines” hit a lot of touchstones for modern drinkers, especially sommeliers.

Natural wines are usually small-production and usually come with a romantic story of a winemaker who has a deep connection with their biodynamic vineyard, and who plays symphony music to their ferments. On the flip side, we’ve all had one of those natural wines that tastes more like a cider, is a little too cloudy for comfort, or is spritzy when it’s not supposed to be.