(Wine-Searcher) - The man who single-handedly slaughtered the great grape's reputation fronts up to growers and says sorry.

Imagine the Vatican holding a conference on morality and inviting Satan as the keynote speaker. Walla Walla, Washington pulled off the vinous equivalent last weekend.

Walla Walla hosted a weekend festival celebrating Merlot. For its headliner, the powers that be chose Rex Pickett, author of the novel "Sideways." A single line in the 2004 film version – "I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!" – immediately made the primary grape of Bordeaux the most uncool variety in the world.

Pickett is always welcome in Pinot Noir-loving Oregon, "and in Burgundy, they roll out the red carpet," he said. He had never been to eastern Washington, where Merlot is the second-most planted grape.

"I learned something right off the plane: don't announce that you wrote the novel 'Sideways', because you're immediately tantamount to Lucifer," he told the audience.

A panel of international Merlot growers discussed the negative impact of "Sideways" on the Merlot market.