(Wine-searcher)-Burgundy producers are looking south as land prices put a brake on vineyard acquisition in the Côte d'Or.

It has been called a gypsy of a grape, although no gypsy ever fetched astronomical prices at auction. But if by gypsy they mean temperamental – think Carmen – they have got in one.

Sensitive to cold, overproduction, extremes of temperature and just about anything else you can think of, Pinot Noir was clearly sent to earth to test a vigneron's patience.

It has disappointed me more times than I can remember – even pricey examples from the legendary vineyards of Burgundy – yet most are reluctant to challenge the axiom that the Côte de Nuits is your only bet for majestic (French) Pinot Noir.

However, in recent times a growing firmament of Burgundian winemakers have set out to prove otherwise. The phenomenon started in Beaujolais, or more specifically the terroir of Les Pierres Dorées, which translates to "golden stones".