Berger on wine: When brett gives Bordeaux a barnyard aroma

Aug 29, 2017

(PressDemocrat) - One of the most widely acclaimed wines in the world is Chateau Mouton-Rothschild. Some people feel this red Bordeaux is about as good a wine as you can buy. Other people say various vintages of this wine are spoiled by an infection that leaves it with a horsey, leathery, barnyard-y quality.

The fact is, both arguments are right. Which only proves that defining just exactly what a “fine wine” is sometimes is extremely difficult and calls for more precise definitions.

In this case, the element I have found, and dislike, in various vintages of many Bordeaux is the same thing some people really like. It is an aroma caused by an organism called brettanomyces, or more commonly brett by those in the industry.

Brett is a wild yeast that has long been known as hard to control and which ferments in a different way than the yeast saccharomyces that converts sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide. Brett can leave a wine with an odd aroma, not to mention a harsher tannin structure.

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