Alain Gautheron was repairing the bottling line when we arrived, and he offered a sweaty wrist in greeting instead of his grease-stained hand. His son, Cyril, and daughter-in-law, Gladys, welcomed us in the small and spare tasting room, with a curved bar on one side and a table on the other displaying medals from the Concours des Grands Vins de France and other prestigious wine competitions. Stones from the family vineyards revealed the impressions of ancient shellfish and snails.