(Winemag) - What fuels the contrast between the steely, stony feel of classic Chablis and the nutty, rounded creaminess of Napa Chardonnay? Apart from the differences in soil and climate, the defining difference is the use of oak.

Oak, a hard but pliable wood, is ideally suited to barrel crafting. It has traditionally played a huge role in wine, especially before the advent of cement and stainless steel tanks. Today, at a time when steel, plastic and cement vessels are all valid options, using oak has become a deliberate choice.

So why would a winemaker choose to use oak? What does it do to wine?

Oak can be a textural and/or a flavor element in winemaking, depending on whether the barrels are new or used, from French or American oak, and their size. It’s the use of new oak that most dramatically influences wine.