Three California wineries have begun importing Champagne: Jordan, Vivier and Buena Vista. And the wines have the balance and length you expect from that region.

Buena Vista and Vivier have French owners, so the connection is not completely surprising. Buena Vista owner Jean-Charles Boisset already imports other French wines to the US. Stéphane Vivier, who is consulting head winemaker at HdV and winemaker at Long Meadow Ranch's Anderson Valley Estate when he's not making wines under his own small label, is, like Boisset, a native of Burgundy.

But Jordan is completely American-owned.