(CBSSF) – Grape growers are keeping their eyes on their crops at a dozen wineries in Carmel Valley closest to the Soberanes Fire, which has burned over 60,000 acres since it began more than two weeks ago in Monterey County.

The grapes have been exposed to heavy levels of smoke as they undergo veraison, when the berries change color indicating they’re moving closer to ripening, and many growers can’t do much to protect their crop, Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association executive director Kim Stemler said.

The Soberanes Fire sparked on July 22 at Garrapata State Park due to an illegal campfire and has charred 60,400 acres (94.37 square miles). It was 45 percent contained as of Monday morning, Cal Fire officials said.

More than 5,000 firefighters are working to extinguish the blaze, which isn’t expected to reach full containment until the end of the month and has already destroyed 57 homes and 11 outbuildings, according to Cal Fire.

The fire led to the death of a 35-year-old private contractor whose bulldozer rolled over while batting the fire. Three other injuries have been reported, Cal Fire officials said.

Luckily, the fire started just before veraison, but the sustained smoke exposure can lead to smoke taint, which can change the smell and flavor of a grape, Stemler said.

The 12 wineries cover about 325 acres, make up less than 1 percent of the total wine grape crop in the county and produce an estimated 130,000 cases, Stemler said.

The grapes are sent to laboratories where they’re tested on a regular basis for many elements including smoke taint, which could also change a grape’s molecular structure, Stemler said.

Monterey County wineries have a longer growing season for grapes compared to places such as Napa County where there are sunnier weather conditions and growers haven’t begun harvesting, Stemler said.

In the face of smoke taint, many wineries may choose to make more rosés that requires growers to remove the skin right away as opposed to pinot noirs, in which the skin is left on during the fermentation process, according to Stemler.

“This year is going to taste differently,” she said.