SHANGHAI: China is mad for wine. At the Haagen Dazs cafe in the trendy Xintiandi district, well-heeled Shanghai urbanites decide between Rum Raisin and Cookies 'n Cream to go with their Chilean Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. While a wine glass might not grace every dining table in China, wine has become a symbol of a desirable urban lifestyle, equal in parts with sophistication and quirky enthusiasm.