(Wine-Searcher) - Although it was once home to generic blends, James Lawrence finds plenty of variety in the country's rejuvenated wine landscape.

The pace with which South Africa has transformed its wine industry is one of the most dramatic changes to have occurred in recent times.

The widespread air of prosperity and freedom – not to mention more than 500 private wineries – would certainly surprise any South African returning home after 50 years on Mars. So too would the structure of the wine map and vineyards; the lavishly expensive cellars; the tourists and wine styles – all of which have changed out of all recognition since the dark days of apartheid and isolationism.

He might also inquire as to what happened to the KWV, an oppressive co-operative that was founded in 1918 with the aim of providing a market and controlling the prices for everything made in the Western Cape, regardless of quality aspirations. In addition, the KWV operated a strict quota system until 1992, that stifled attempts of wineries to explore their sub-regions and experiment with new vine planting. "With the various systems that were in place a number of years ago the industry was mainly centered around the supply of bulk wine for different purposes. This led to a wide variety of grape varieties to be planted somewhat indiscriminately," observes Alastair Rimmer, cellar master at Kleine Zalze winery.

Indeed, terroir and the European tradition of matching a specific vine variety to a specific site, was once a complete anathema to the majority of South Africa's winemakers. Their specialty was planting a wide range of grape varieties across different regions wholesale, producing the infamous "Cape Blend" red, a concoction of Pinotage and other red varieties. My father once described his first sip as "akin to putting one's head in a diesel engine".