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The Women Who Rule Napa
Apr 12, 2016
(Lepanmedia) - Many of Napa Valley’s greatest wineries are led by women. Kelli White profiles eight of the local legends whose names bestride the world stage of fine wine and discovers what makes them unique.
While female winemakers continue to proliferate at an encouraging rate, female founders of wineries are somewhat rarer, even in Napa where women have long been a force. That Ann Colgin is one of the world’s most prominent examples is all the more remarkable considering Colgin Cellars was only established in 1992. Back then, it was her background in art auctions that led to her becoming a vintner. “I came to Napa for the wine auction of 1988,” explains Colgin. “I saw the great camaraderie between the vintners and began to understand what a special place Napa was.”
Colgin hired Helen Turley, who had just left Peter Michael Winery, as her founding winemaker and the two women located the fruit sources and established the style that put the Colgin name on the map. Turley was succeeded by Mark Aubert, but today Colgin Cellars again boasts a female winemaker – the abundantly talented Allison Tauziet. When asked about her predilection for female winemakers, Colgin replies: “My only goal is to choose the best candidate; I did not select them on account of their gender. That said, I’m quite happy if they are women.”
Colgin is excited about the expansion of her Tychson Hill property, part of a site originally owned by Josephine Tychson, California’s first documented female winery owner whose estate became Freemark Abbey. Tychson lies along an auspicious strip of western St Helena and features some truly prime Cabernet soil, a tribute not only to its original owner but also to Napa’s dominant grape – and Colgin’s first love in wine. “I do feel that for Cabernet Sauvignon, there is no better place than Napa Valley,” she says.
Blending the Dream
Unlike Colgin, Heidi Peterson Barrett grew up in the vineyards. The guiding hand behind some of the most exalted vintages of Dalla Valle and Screaming Eagle, Barrett ranks as one of the best-known winemakers in American history. It could be argued that she had a genetic pre-disposition for cellar work; her father, Richard Peterson, is a noted winemaker, known for his time at Beaulieu Vineyards. “Growing up was great,” says Barrett. “Most of my summer jobs were with him in the vineyard, cellar, lab or bottling line.” By the time she was leaving high school, Barrett had several years of industry experience under her belt.
After graduating from the noted oenology school of learning, the University of California, Davis, Barrett worked briefly abroad before settling into an internship under Justin Meyer at Silver Oak and Franciscan. Her first official winemaking post was at Buehler Vineyards, where she stayed for five years before leaving to become a winemaking consultant. The spectacular success of her first two clients (Dalla Valle and Screaming Eagle) opened many doors, and since then she has consulted for some of Napa’s starriest names: Grace, Jones, Kenzo, Showket, Revana, Vineyard 29 and Barbour. The majority of these have been start-ups, a deliberate decision on Barrett’s part. “I love to help winery owners realize their dreams,” she says. Barrett considers blending to be her strongest talent. “Blending is one of the more magical elements of wine wherein you can elevate the quality significantly; where one plus one can equal four, five or six.”
In 1994, Barrett launched La Sirena, her own label that harnesses a refreshing creativity with a sense of the playful. The portfolio changes regularly, but focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. She also recently co-established Barrett & Barrett, a collaborative winemaking project with her husband Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena.
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