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This Vintner Wants You To Try Weirder Wines
Mar 31, 2016
(ModernFarmer) - "I want us to expand as a market away from these six varietals that we all know," says Megan Bell, the creator of Margins Wine. With a Kickstarter that rapidly reached its $10,000 goal, she might actually have a shot at doing that. But boy, is it a big risk.
The wine market, according to Bell, is, if not stagnant, kind of boring. “Napa,” says the Bay Area native, “is a very cool region, but we’ve seen the same things from it over and over again.” After graduating from the viticulture and enology program at the University of California, Davis in 2012—yes, your math is right; she was under the drinking age for about three-quarters of her degree—Bell traveled, drank, and began to ponder a business that might expand the wine market into weirder, more interesting places.
The five or six most popular wine varietals completely dominate the wine market in the US. According to 2014 Nielsen data, they are Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, and Pinot Noir—and just those first three make up more than half of the total California wine output.
There are thousands of different varieties of wine grapes in the world. Just to take the US as an example, they grow from the frigid Finger Lakes of New York to the brutal desert of Arizona. But when most people think, or buy, Californian wines, they go for big, bold Cabernets, Merlots, and Pinots coming from Napa and Sonoma counties. These have been far and away the most popular Californian wines on the market since the 1980s—but maybe not for much longer. The New York Times Magazine wrote about a new wave of Californian growers who are opting for subtler, less alcoholic, less sweet wines, more similar to European bottles than the bold, fruity typical Californian wine. They’re growing in colder, less hospitable places like the mountains of Santa Cruz, allowing grapes to struggle, as they do in France and Italy and Spain.
As sort of one branch of that movement, Bell is trying to broaden the way people think about Californian wine. Her company, Margins Wine, is still in its infancy, but the idea is intriguing. “I want to look at things that people haven’t looked at before,” she says. “For me, that’s always more interesting.” Margins Wine will, she hopes, find grapes that are grown on the margins: varietals you’ve never or barely heard of, from vineyards you’ve certainly never heard of, grown in places you might be surprised that grapes can even be grown, including deserts and cold mountains.
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