Demand for foreign wines is growing among the swelling middle class. French exports dominate in a market that has been largely polarized — drinkers buy very cheap bottles or very expensive ones. At a time when recession-pinched Americans are swilling Trader Joe's "Two Buck Chuck," Sun Xiao thinks nothing of entertaining his friends with $150 bottles of wine at his private club. "I like wine — very rich wine," Sun, chief executive of a real estate investment firm, said one evening as attendants in traditional Chinese gowns stood nearby, ready to serve up an expensive bottle at his beckon. "It's the perfect example of humanity and nature living in harmony."