You know times have changed when French wines, bruised by competition from the “New World,” fight back with the upstarts’ own weapon — dropping complex regional labeling for the plain old grape name.Even the staunchest of Gallic wine lovers now order Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon instead of, say, their favorite Chablis or Bordeaux.The change concerns everyday wines, notably those bound for export.Labels on better varieties, grand cru and AOC or “controlled designation of origin” wines will carry on in time-honored fashion.