Proposed San Diego County law could change the meaning of 'local' wine

Dec 2, 2015

(LATimes) - By the time this issue is settled, everyone is going to want a drink.

But the question is whether that beverage will be a glass of red made by a boutique winery with grapes grown in San Diego County, or if that wine will come from a local business that trucks in bulk wine from around the world, puts it into bottles and sells it with its own name on the label.

County government is considering amendments to its 2010 winery ordinance, a law that made it possible for small businesses in unincorporated parts of San Diego County to turn grapes into wine, offer tastings and sell the product by the bottle. The changes could more strictly define what is and what isn't a San Diego wine and reshape the county's fledgling, and quickly expanding, wine industry.

By one measure, the 2010 ordinance was successful; it eliminated the need for most wineries to get a major use permit, cutting one startup cost alone by an estimated $250,000. With this financial hurdle gone, the county saw quick growth in its wine industry, particularly in the Ramona area where the number of boutique wineries — small businesses that make fewer than 12,000 gallons of wine per year — exploded from two to approximately 30 in five years.

Despite this expansion, some of the ordinance's biggest proponents are concerned how the winemaking industry interpreted the groundbreaking law.

"We gave birth to this child, this winery ordinance, and we have some growing pains that need to be dealt with," Supervisor Dianne Jacob said.

Hence, the amendments.

Supporters argue the ordinance not only made it easier for vintners and winemakers in the county, but that it also brought a bunch of "rogue" wineries that cut corners. They weren't using locally grown grapes, were sometimes just rebottling imported wine and weren't honoring the spirit of the ordinance. What's behind the cork wasn't an authentic San Diego wine, they said.

"It's not about bringing the bulk wine in, or 'playing house' as I call it," said Carolyn Harris, the vice president and general counsel for the Ramona Valley Winery Assn.

Many wineries also opened restaurants, book live entertainment and host events on their property. It was becoming less about locally grown grapes and niche wines as much as it became about the winery experience, supporters of the revisions say.


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