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Prosecco Boom Raises Questions in Champagne
Oct 20, 2015
(Wine-Searcher) - Opinion is mixed over whether the Italian sparkler's popularity is good news for Champagne producers.
Prosecco's seemingly unstoppable rise isn't worrying Champagne producers, who remain bullish in the face of increasing competition from the more-affordable Italian bubbly, but not everyone is so confident.
At the Viteff sparkling wine conference in Epernay last weekend, Pascal Ferrat, the president of the SGV, which represents Champagne producers, answered the question of whether Prosecco posed a threat to Champagne with a resounding "No".
"Champagne represents only 8 percent of the volume of sparkling wines in the world, but 45 percent of the value," he said. "For special occasions, Champagne remains paramount."
Prosecco's growth – which topped 400 million bottles this year, compared to 300m for Champagne – hasn't been dismissed quite so easily by all Champenoise, however, with Bollinger chief executive Jérôme Philippon pointing to the rapid rise of Prosecco sales in the UK, which has traditionally been a big Champagne market.
"In England, many establishments have been offering Prosecco as an aperitif over the past three years," he said. "When we drink Prosecco, we drink Italy and La Dolce Vita. It is a competitor to Champagne, but also a competitor for gin cocktails and soft drinks. But I am optimistic for Champagne; our survival does not depend on price. We must refocus on luxury wine and the expensive end of the market."
Other producers have been feeling the pinch, however, especially those without the famous Champagne branding to fall back on. Pierre de Couëdic, managing director of the UPEBC, which represents producers of Crémant de Bourgogne wines, said tradition was weighing heavy on his members.
"It is complicated to explain to the consumer the different methods of preparation of sparkling, because everyone adopted the blanket term. Prosecco opted for volume. Crémant producers have made the choice of relying on the identity and price. Champagne remains the benchmark. The multiplicity on offer in sparkling wine helps to attract more consumers to the sector. One can draw a parallel with the streets where there are many restaurants. This creates a situation where everyone finds his place."
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