(OregonLive) - Tad Seestedt knows a winemaker only gets about 40 chances in his career to perfect his craft. Each year, he gets one shot with the grapes he grew or bought.

It seems those odds just weren't long enough. Seestedt's company, Ransom Wine, relies on one of the riskiest business models in the wine industry. He is constantly one insect away from losing at least one of his shots.

He sources all his grapes from vines that are the most susceptible to phylloxera, a pervasive pest that plagues Oregon vineyards. The nearly-microscopic yellow louse lives at the bottom of a vine and chomps on the roots and leaves, eventually cutting off nutrients and water to the plant. Death comes sometimes slowly, sometimes quickly, but once phylloxera gains a foothold, it's nearly impossible to stop.

If the pest takes hold in one of the fields Seestedt buys grapes from, his business could be significantly hurt. But, it's worth it, he thinks, for the taste of vines grown on their own roots.

"The vineyards that I always found to be my favorites and to make the best wine are from vines that are on their own roots," Seestedt said.