France: These Winemaking Punks Are Bringing Anarchy to the Vineyard

Oct 5, 2015

(Munchies.Vice) - High on a rocky vineyard in Banyuls-sur-Mer, just over the Spanish border in the south of France, a wine tasting is in progress.

“The yield of grapes has just been amazing this year,” says one man.

“I love how sweet this one tastes. The grapes are left longer on the vines so it’s more concentrated,” adds another.

If you’re picturing ruddy cheeked, suited-up white dudes swilling and spitting for their country right now, you’re very wrong. This group of seven or so wine fanatics are all extended members of the “techno punk crew” Collectif Anonyme. Today, they’re happily enjoying a few of their choice vintages outside the caravans where they live on the vineyard.

This group of friends—who want to remain faceless and anonymous—have been making French natural wine since 2013. Like the original punks of the 70s, their aim is to bring anarchy—this time to France’s sometimes elitist wine industry.

“We wanted to make a wine together, that’s why we’re Collectif Anonyme, it’s not my wine or Julia’s wine: it’s our wine,” says Australian-born Kris, who started the Collectif with Julia, from Germany. “It’s always a social thing. It’s so hypocritical that these people go around and will say, ‘This is my wine.’ It’s another way of cutting through all the bullshit. Plus, I’ve always been involved in the punk scene so we wanted to do something political.”

Kris and Julia met through their involvement with the radical left scene in Berlin in the mid-noughties and went on to work together in the famous wine region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

But while working in the vineyards, the pair felt again entrenched in the system they’d attempted to break out of back in Germany. They’d ended up working for “the man” again. A man who probably looked a lot like that ruddy cheeked, wine-swiller.

“When I was working in the vineyards four or five years ago, I would often do all the hard jobs and someone else would get up there and say, ‘That’s my wine.’” says Kris. “But we actually made that wine—me and some other guys. You’re just the capitalist coming along and putting your name on it. ‘Domaine de blah blah’ or something. Wine is sold through personalities here.”

But the ultimate middle finger to the establishment? Making wine that’s as kick-ass as their politics.


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